Art and Design of Ancient Bangkok

The outskirts of Phra Nakhon still retain remnants of the old lumber trading area, now complemented by trendy and stylish cafes

Just right next to Mahadthai-Utit bridge or the bridge of sorrow, we can see a bright white cafe at No. 8,on Boripat Road, along the canal surrounding the city, is the location of 'เจดีย์คาเฟ่' Jedi Cafe & Bar. Originally, this space served as a storage area for a flower shop owned by Grandma Aed. At present, Khun Karn, Grandma's grandchild, has taken over the space along with his friend named PJ. Both were marketing freelance since 2017 until their business grew in 2020, leading them to open a company and necessitate office space. They renovated the upper floor of this shophouse for office use, using all the materials available in the neighborhood.

With a passion for coffee, Khun Karn pursued specialized studies at Le Cordon Bleu Institute, envisioning the opening of a coffee shop in this building. Given its proximity to a temple, they aimed to establish an environment where the younger generation could comfortably gather near the temple area without feeling out of place. Naming the coffee shop "Jedi Cafe & Bar" was a deliberate choice to align it with the space overlooking the Golden Mountain Pagoda. The design concept focuses on creating a bright and serene atmosphere, positioning the coffee shop as a place of healing. The interior occasionally features artworks, with different artists contributing their works over time. Situated alongside the canal, the area offers views of the public park around Pom Mahakarn, providing a tranquil and inviting spot for neighborhood visitors.

We would personally recommend you to try one of our most favorite drinks in this cafe! It is called ‘Himmapan”! It is a mixture of orange juice and coffee! It’s a perfect drink to order when you have just been walking outside all day!

Himmapan is actually the name of an actual mystical forest in Buddha cosmology. It is said that the forest is home to many small and large mythical creatures such as the Naga, which is half human half serpent, Garuda and Kinnaree which are half bird half human!

This sub-district is known for its teak wood craftsmanship, with these chariots frequently utilized by Chinese carpenters

During the reign of King Rama V, a development project was initiated where the king purchased lands along the road expansion line from Pratu Pi, also known as The Ghost Gate. He transformed this neighborhood into a commercial area that was connected to The Giant Swing intersection.

This region is renowned for its carpentry, particularly among Chinese artisans who historically operated numerous wood workshops along the Mahanak Canal and Ong Ang Canal. Today, it remains a hub for shops specializing in woodworking and lathe work.

In this row of buildings along Boriphat Road, the area has traditionally been a hub for businesses related to wood, including doors, windows, and wooden furniture. Originally located outside the walls of Rattanakosin Island, or the inner area of Bangkok's old town, these concrete and steel-reinforced shophouses date back to the early days of Bangkok. They were constructed alongside Bori Pat Road and the surrounding canal, forming part of the property under the management of Wat Saket, overseen by the Office of National Buddhism.

The original entrepreneurs engaged in the wood trade, still producing wooden doors and windows, continue their businesses to this day which you can visit and talk about their stories such as “Samfah Kan chang”. Recently, there has been an influx of new groups of people entering the area, utilizing the space for various creative activities such as restaurants, coffee shops, and offices. This transition reflects a shift from traditional wood-related businesses to a more diverse range of creative enterprises within this historical row of buildings.

From the gate of misery to a delightful intersection of Samranrat

Not many people know the origin of this intersection, which used to be one of the old city gates. When locals refer to this area, they might call it the 'Ghost Gate' because it was traditionally used for ritualistic purposes. However, with the expansion and demolition of the city gates and walls, this area has transformed into a residential neighborhood and a hub for delicious food, comparable to the famous Dinso Road.

The name 'ประตูผี' Pra-tu-pee (Ghost Gate) originates from a time when bodies in Bangkok were not cremated within the city walls. Only kings and royal family members were permitted to cremate at the field in front of 'สนามหลวง' Sanam Luang (Royal Field), while commoners had to cremate bodies at temples outside the city walls, with Wat Saket, or the Golden Mount Temple, being the closest temple to the Ghost Gate.

A well-known Thai rhyme 'แร้งวัดสระเกศ เปรตวัดสุทัศน์' (Raeng-Wat-Sa-Ket-Pret-Wat-Su-That) dates back to the early 19th century, during King Rama II's era, when a severe cholera outbreak in Bangkok caused approximately 30,000 deaths, overwhelming the capacity of temples for cremation. Subsequently, during the fourth reign, another epidemic, likely cholera again, resulted in more than 40,000 deaths, prompting villagers to flee the city in fear. The bodies were then transported outside the city walls and placed at Wat Sa Ket, where vultures would feed on the corpses, creating a fearful image for Bangkok residents.

Around the time of the Second World War, the area was renamed by the government to 'สําราญราษฎร์' Sam-ran-rad, meaning 'Joyful People', coinciding with the establishment of the Sala Chalerm movie theatre nearby. This transformation led to the area becoming vibrant, with many renowned night dining places including the famous duck porridge shop, which recently relocated here, was originally situated at this intersection.

The area, currently is well known for containing a variety of food stalls including street food and michelin stars food stalls as well. Some of the notable mentions may include 'ร้านเจ๊ไฝ Raan Jay Fai' which is well known for her famous crab omelet and is featured in Michelin guide for many years, 'ตี๋เย็นตาโฟ' Tee Yen Ta Fo which is a reddish rice noodle similar to Tom Yum but not spicy, and 'ทิพย์สมัย' Thipsamai , the famous Pad Thai restaurant. By the way, If you want to avoid a long waiting line at Thipsamai we would recommend you to try the place nearby calls 'ลุงภาผัดไทย' Loong Pa Padthai. Their Pad Thai also not bad at all and it is one of the long standing Pad Thai shop and don't forget to try Thai desserts from the shop next door 'สิริรัชขนมไทย Sirirat Thai dessert', 'น้ำเต้าหู้ปูปลา Namtaohuu Pu Pla' for Tofu milk dessert in Thai style one of our favorite place as well as 'คาวบอยหมึกย่าง ประตูผี' Cowboy Pratupee grilled squid with Thai spicy sauce!

You can definitely check out the location and picture of each place here!

Tranquility with Buddhist art dedicated to feminism and the wonderful poetry of the famous artist

Wat Thepthidaram, one of the three temples commissioned by King Rama III the early 19th century. Originally known as Wat Phraya Krai, it was graciously commissioned by Prince Ladawan, who served as the chief builder. Construction commenced in the year 1836 and and took 3 years to complete in 1839, with the king personally attending the opening ceremony. The temple was named Wat Thepthidaram or literally means The Goddess temple in honor of Her Royal Highness Princess Vilas or Princess Apsorn Sudathep, the eldest daughter and the beloved one of King Rama III.

Inside the temple, there are three notable places we recommend exploring: The Tripitaka Hall, the Bhikkhuni Shrine, and the Sunthorn Phu Museum.

Just on the left side of the entrance gate from Soi Samranrat is the 'หอไตร' Hor-Tri (Tripitaka Hall) , serving as a testament to the commitment to preserving cultural and religious heritage in the heart of Bangkok.

The Tripitaka Hall is a structure used to store the Buddhist scriptures, known as the Tripitaka or the Buddhist Canon. It holds a significant status as the temple's library keeping all the Dharma books. This building was previously abandoned and deteriorated due to long periods of disuse. However, in 2008, the Association of Siamese Architects under Royal Patronage collaborated with UNESCO Asia-Pacific to provide both financial and volunteer support for the restoration of the scripture hall. In recognition of outstanding conservation efforts, the project received the UNESCO Asia-Pacific Heritage Awards for Cultural Heritage Conservation in 2011.

Normally you will find this hall close but thanks to the temple initiative you can see the interior of this hall from this official link from the temple website here

The hall, with its brick foundation and woodcraft decorations, preserves many aspects of traditional Tripitaka Hall architecture, known for its wooden construction. It features an open space underneath, akin to a traditional Thai house. Doors and windows are adorned with plasterwork shaped like cotton rosemallow flowers, delicately covered with gold leaves. This technique, known as 'ลายรดน้ํา' (Lai Rod Nam) in Thai, represents a form of Thai lacquer art, depicting two guardian deities atop "Kochasing", a mythical creature with the head of an elephant and the body of a lion.

Make sure that you visit the 'พระวิหาร' Phra Vihara (Shrine), or the 'วิหารภิกษุณี' (Bhikkhuni Shrine), at Wat Thepthidaram. This shrine, reflecting the architectural style of King Rama III's era and influenced by Chinese art, stands out with its unique minimal roof structure adorned with tile decorations. As you step inside, you'll be greeted by intricately carved bas-reliefs portraying flying swans on the red-painted walls, symbolizing femininity and grace.

Within the shrine, you will discover a remarkable collection of 52 'Bhikkhuni' statues, with 49 sculptures seated while 3 are standing. Among them, the principal figure is Prajapati Gautami, celebrated as the mother and nurturer of Lord Buddha, and revered as the first 'Bhikkhuni' or Buddhist nun who later became a Buddhist saint. These statues, meticulously crafted, depict various poses and activities, capturing moments ranging from meditation to learning and reverence. Each statue portrays a unique posture, offering a glimpse into the diverse roles of women in Buddhism.

This unique congregation of devotion, featuring statues and bas-reliefs, distinguishes Wat Thepthidaram as a significant representation of women in Buddhism. Its predominant emphasis on female figures and graceful motifs not only showcases artistic excellence but also radiates a distinctly feminine energy throughout the temple.

Learning about the influential pieces of Siamese poetry that reflect Thai society and having the chance to hear traditional poems

Welcome to Sunthorn Phu Museum where it was once a home of the Thailand's best known royal poet of Thai history. His works are so famous that the Thai government included them inside the curriculum of Thai middle school and high school! Every single Thai person in this country has heard of this name and work. In 1986 Sunthorn Phu was honored by UNESCO as a great world poet as the first Thai commoner.
If you are ready then do not hesitate to enter the museum and talk to the staff!

Sunthorn Phu was a renowned Thai poet born in 1786 near the palace on the west bank of Chao Phraya river. Due to his mother's role as a wet nurse for the royal family, he had the opportunity to work in the palace alongside her. There he showed an early talent for writing poetry. Despite their financial struggles, he pursued a monastic education, immersing himself in literature and Buddhist teachings.

Sunthorn Phu eventually left the monkhood after that his life went up and down. He worked in various jobs, got prisoned causing from fighting there he began to work on 'พระอภัยมณี' Phra Aphai Mani and publish it in episodes for the next twenty years.

AAfter his release from prison, Sunthorn Phu gained recognition at the royal court during King Rama II's reign in the early 19th century. He rose in rank and produced renowned Thai poems, including 'พระอภัยมณี' (Phra Aphai Mani), a national epic. This tale follows Prince Aphai Mani, a Byronic hero, in romantic adventures across ancient Thailand. Adapted into films and comics, the poem intertwines folklore, mythology, and moral teachings, reflecting Sunthorn Phu's profound insight into Thai culture.

Despite his success at court, Sunthorn Phu's alcohol-induced aggression led to imprisonment again. However, the king released him, recognizing his unique talent for poetry. After eight years in court, he became a monk upon the king's death.

He came to reside in this temple because his work caught Princess Vilas's attention, to whom the temple was dedicated. Her Majesty invited Sunthorn Phu to live here, allowing him to focus on his poetry. This arrangement mirrors Western patronage, where wealthy individuals support artists they admire, enabling them to create and be the first to enjoy their work.

Sunthorn Phu took his second ordination and observed his monastic retreat at Wat Thepthidaram around the year 1827 in the Monk Residence No.7. On this occasion, Princess Vilas, who had read Sunthorn Phu's various literary works inherited from her brother Prince Lakhananukul, who had previously supported Sunthorn Phu during his first ordination. The princess was particularly pleased with the poet's work, 'Phra Aphai Mani,' so she requested Sunthorn Phu to compose a literary work about Phra Aphai Mani and present her with one book each month. During his retreat at Wat Thepthidaram, Sunthorn Phu also taught the Thai language and composed a Thai reading practice book name 'Phra Chai Suriya'. Additionally, he wrote another work titled 'Singha Krai Phop,' about adventurous folklore dedicated to Princess Vilas.