From Royal to Commercial

Historic printing house embodies Thailand's architectural fusion.

Explore the rich history of the old printing house, a testament to Thailand's architectural prowess and historical significance, blending Western influences seamlessly into its eclectic design. The old printing house is the remains of what was once a famous printing house back that provides services to the ministries in the area!

This is the old printing house, formerly known as บํารุงนุกูลกิจ, once the largest and longest-running printing house of its time. It was considered modern due to its use of oil-based printing machines. Constructed in 1895 during King Chulalongkorn's reign, it operated until 1961, serving for nearly 60 years and remaining over 100 years old today. This area housed ministries and government buildings, resulting in a high demand for printing due to the extensive use of papers and physical books before digital databases. While many printing houses once thrived here, this is the sole survivor.

The two-story building housed not only the printing factory but also bookstores, libraries, and customer service offices, employing 70 to 80 workers daily. What kind of books did they print? Textbooks, Dhamma books (Buddhist teachings), and government publications were among them. The government set up its printing office, eliminating the need for private ones like this.

The building's architecture is a blend of Eclectic, classical, and Victorian styles. Experts believe European architects with Chinese craftsmen constructed it, as evident in the intricate plasterwork and delicate wood carvings. Today, it stands as a local treasure showcasing Thailand's architectural blend and its ability to integrate Western influences without colonization.

An old-school café in the heart of delicious vibrancy

Discover the rich heritage of Chi Kat Cha, a vintage café that has evolved through three generations, blending historical artifacts with a delightful menu of familiar beverages and snacks.

Chi Kat Cha is a vintage cafe that embodies the charm of a local residence that has been owned by a Thai-Chinese family for generations, now serving beverages and refreshments to visitors. The cafe offers a simple, and basic range of familiar beverages, from simple Americanos to refreshing lemon iced tea, accompanied by the cafe's renowned crispy roti. Chi Kat Cha has been in the family for three generations, with its name derived from Sanskrit, meaning "Eat and Drink," as named by a monk.

The cafe has been around for three generations already! Initially, in its first generation this place was opened as a cafe but later transitioned into a mechanical and electronic repair shop during the second generation. However, under the ownership of P Muu, the current third-generation owner, the decision was made to revert back to operating a café within this historic building. Remarkably, remnants of the electronics and machinery from the repair shop era, left unclaimed by their owners, are proudly displayed inside glass cabinets for patrons to admire. Some of these items even date back to World War II, showcasing their durability and historical significance.

In essence, Chi Kat Cha serves not only as a café but also as a living museum, showcasing everyday items used by past generations. everyone is encouraged to appreciate these artifacts on the same level as the renowned artworks in mainstream museums, as they represent a significant aspect of our shared history.

Historic Sam Phraeng: Royal legacy, culinary delights await.

Embark on a journey through the historical roots and vibrant transformations of Sam Phraeng neighborhood, steeped in centuries of cultural significance and architectural evolution.

Sam Phraeng

Here we are at Sam Phraeng neighborhood. Sam Phraeng has its roots dating back to 1767 when King Taksin moved the capital to Thonburi. According to the annals, this area was formerly referred to as "Muddy Sea," meaning a large plain with stagnant water throughout the year. That’s why in the past, this area was used for military camps and rice cultivation.

Later in the reign of King Rama I in 1782, Bangkok was established. City moats and walls across the land were increasingly excavated. Combined with its location near the Grand Palace, city canals, and Lod canals, which were the main transportation routes in earlier days, this area transformed into a hub for royal descendants, government officials, and all local residents settling here.

Over the following reigns, Sam Phraeng underwent significant development, as witnessed in the present-day remnants of several beautiful old buildings. One important factor is the land development since in the mid-19 century or in the reign of King Rama IV, which entered into treaty with Western nations. Plus its proximity to the Grand Palace, this area subsequently attracted a number of businesses, especially international companies. Later, during the Victorian era in King Rama V’s times, residential areas were transfigured into the locations of various ministries, capable of drawing more foreign companies and businesses to suit the needs of government officials working in the ministries.

Delight in Hakka cuisine: Pig brain soup, a culinary gem.

Delve into the unique culinary experience offered by Thai Tham Gao Lao Smorng Muu, an eatery renowned for its Hakka recipes and signature dish featuring pig brains in soup, meticulously crafted for both nutritional value and flavor.

This particular eatery specializes in Hakka recipes and is nestled between two houses in a narrow passageway, offering a unique dish featuring pig brains in soup. While this might evoke imagery akin to a scene from a suspenseful film, it is, in fact, a nutritious and delectable delicacy. Each ingredient, especially the pig brains, is meticulously selected by Granny Sud Jit, the founder of Thai Tham pork brain Gao Lao soup, and now overseen by her niece.

Be assured that all ingredients meet stringent hygiene standards, ensuring a safe dining experience. The restaurant's enduring success over more than six decades attests to its commitment to quality and safety. Granny Sud Jit has been sharing her secret soup recipes for decades, starting at a time when a bowl cost a mere 3 baht, now priced at 100 baht due to inflation. The soup also includes round fish skin, stuffed tofu, radish meatballs, fried meatballs, eagle meatballs, pork, and intestines, all meticulously prepared to provide a nutritious and flavorful experience.

This establishment stands as the sole restaurant in Thailand offering such a rare and distinctive dish, earning recognition through local food shows and among the local community. For those who may prefer alternative options, the restaurant also offers equally delightful dishes. Simply enter, peruse the menu displayed on the wall, and indulge in the offerings of Thai Tham pork brain Gao Lao soup. Your dining experience is bound to be a memorable one.

Historic Phraeng Nara: Fusion architecture, cultural legacy, theatrical heritage.

Delve into the rich history of Phraeng Nara, a neighborhood steeped in cultural heritage and architectural fusion, boasting a fascinating past as the former palace district of Prince Narathip Prapanphong and home to the renowned "Preedalai Theater" at Worrawan Palace.

"Phraeng Nara," is another neighborhood that belongs to the Sam Phraeng, right in the middle between Phraeng Puthon and Phraeng Suppasart. this area is a short street surrounded by buildings constructed in a blend of Thai and Western styles, similar to those found in Phraeng Phuthorn. Initially, Phraeng Nara was the old palace district of Prince Narathip Praphanphong, the son of King Rama IV and the brother of King Rama V. At first, he held the position of Deputy Minister of Finance. Later on, he resigned from his official duties to pursue his business. Among them is the entertainment industry, specifically known as “Preedalai Theater" in his palace called Worrawan Palace!

The theatrical play “Preedalai" at Worawan Palace has developed from both Thai and Western dramas, featuring an all-female cast and soaring to fame during the reigns of King Rama VI and VII. This theater continued to prosper under the supervision of Princess Lakshamilavan, the daughter of Prince Narathip Prapanphong. However, after she moved out to reside outside Bangkok, the theater came to its final act around 1927 and fell under the management of the Crown Property Bureau until 1953. Later, it was leased to establish a "Talaphat Suksa School" until its closure in the year 1995.

This palace is a two-story structure made of a combination of half wood and half brick, inspired by the Neo-Classical style of the West. One distinctive feature worth observing is the delicately carved wood patterns that adorn various parts of the building, resembling the act of decorating gingerbread, often referred to as the 'Gingerbread House' style.

Phraeng Supphasart’s architecture and its weaving of the West

Explore the captivating legacy of Phraeng Sapphasart, named after Prince Sapphasart Suphakit and renowned for its exquisite palace craftsmanship and unique architectural elements that once graced this historic neighborhood.

"Phraeng Sapphasart," named after “His Royal Highness Prince Sapphasart Suphakit,” one of the sons of King Rama IV. Interestingly, he was the favored brother of King Rama V because of his exceptional artistic abilities, to the extent that he even directed the Department of Royal Craftman, especially in "The Royal Goldsmith Department" Therefore, there has been widespread acclaim that his palace in the Phraeng Sapphasart surpasses others in beauty, a testament to his outstanding craftsmanship.

From the sayings of the elderly, the old palace was immense, with a grand entrance door adorned with marble from the gate to the very core of the residence. The place served as a quarter for Western foreigners and goldsmiths during that era. The second part of the palace encompassed gardens and lotus ponds that extended to the center of the residence. After his passing, the heir sold the palace’s grounds to King Rama V, who later constructed shophouses similar in style to those in Phraeng Phuthorn and Phraeng Nara.

The original design of these shophouses was executed in a slender form, with overhanging tiles along the roof edge forming a long cement eave. There were tall cement pillars, roughly equating the size of our arms, arranged in rows within certain sections, approximately 4-5 columns in each row. Specifically, the column heads resembled bud-shaped lotus tips, working as indicators for room sizes. When viewed from below, it would create an aesthetically pleasing appearance as the tiles were not visible. Unfortunately, these shophouses encountered two major fires in 1958 and 1967, and that's why we no longer see these beautiful old buildings in Phraeng Sapphasart today, unlike in Phreang Phuthorn and Phraeng Nara. The only remnants are the "The Gate of Supphasart Suphakit Palace," located right by the Tanao street.

The Gate of Supphasart, characterized by its extensive use of large-sized teak wood, is noticeable in the thickness of the gate structure. At the top, the gate features an arch-shaped frame that draws influences from French architectural designs. In the center, you will witness a sculpted representation of a Greek goddess holding a torch, with stained glass panels being decorated on both sides of the sculpture. In reality, this gate has undergone new rebuildings, particularly the brickwork support pillar at the bottom designed to bear the weight above. For further details, you can also find inscriptions about the gate on the side walls!